Mountaineering
is the
sport, hobby or profession of walking, hiking and climbing up mountains. It
is also sometimes known as alpinism. It may be said to consist of three
aspects: rock-craft, snow-craft and skiing, depending on whether the route
chosen is over rock, snow or ice. All require great athletic and technical
ability, and experience is also a very important part of the latter.
Hazards
The craft of climbing has been developed to avoid three main types of
danger: the danger of things falling on the climber (objective danger), the
danger of the climber falling and inclement weather. The things that may
fall include rocks, ice, snow, other climbers or their gear; the mountaineer
may fall from rocks, ice or snow, or into a crevasse. In all, there are
eight chief dangers: falling rocks, falling ice, snow-avalanches, falls, the
climber falling, falls from ice slopes, falls down snow slopes, falls into
crevasses and dangers from weather. To select and follow a route using one's
skills and experience to mitigate these dangers is to exercise the climber's
craft.
Falling rocks
Every rock mountain is slowly disintegrating due to erosion, the process
being especially rapid above the snow-line. Rock faces are constantly swept
by falling stones, which are generally possible to dodge. Falling rocks tend
to form furrows in a mountain face, and these furrows (couloirs) have to be
ascended with caution, their sides often being safe when the middle is stone
swept. Rocks fall more frequently on some days than on others, according to
the recent weather. Ice formed during the night may temporarily bind rocks
to the face but warmth of the day or direct sun exposure may easily dislodge
these rocks. Local experience is a valuable help on determining typical rock
fall on such routes.
The direction of the dip of rock strata often determines the degree of
danger on a particular face; the character of the rock must also be
considered. Where stones fall frequently debris will be found below, whilst
on snow slopes falling stones cut furrows visible from a great distance. In
planning an ascent of a new peak mountaineers must look for such traces.
When falling stones get mixed in considerable quantity with slushy snow or
water a mud avalanche is formed (common in the Himalaya). It is vital to
avoid camping in their possible line of fall.
Falling ice
The places where ice may fall can always be determined beforehand. It falls
in the broken parts of glaciers (seracs) and from overhanging cornices
formed on the crests of narrow ridges. Large icicles are often formed on
steep rock faces, and these fall frequently in fine weather following cold
and stormy days. They have to be avoided like falling stones. Seracs are
slow in formation, and slow in arriving (by glacier motion) at a condition
of unstable equilibrium. They generally fall in or just after the hottest
part of the day, and their debris seldom goes far. A skillful and
experienced ice-man will usually devise a safe route through a most
intricate ice-fall, but such places should be avoided in the afternoon of a
hot day. Hanging glaciers (i.e. glaciers perched on steep slopes) often
discharge themselves over steep rock-faces, the snout breaking off at
intervals. They can always be detected by their debris below. Their track
should be avoided.
Avalanche
The avalanche is the most underestimated danger in the mountains. People
generally think that they will be able to recognize the hazards and survive
being caught. The truth is a somewhat different story. Every year, 120 - 150
people die in small avalanches in the Alps alone. The vast majority are
reasonably experienced male skiers aged 20-35 but also include ski
instructors and guides. There is always a lot of pressure to risk a snow
crossing. Turning back takes a lot of extra time and effort, supreme
leadership, and most importantly there seldom is an avalanche to prove the
right decision was made. Making the decision to turn around is especially
hard if others are crossing the slope, but any next person could become the
trigger.
There are two types of avalanche:
The slab avalanche: This type of avalanche occurs when a plate of snow
breaks loose and starts sliding down; these are the largest and most
dangerous.
Hard slab avalanche - formed by hard-packed snow in a cohesive slab. The
slab will not break up easily as it slides down the hill, resulting in large
blocks tumbling down the mountain.
Soft slab avalanche - formed again by a cohesive layer of snow bonded
together, the slab tends to break up more easily.
The loose snow avalanche: This type of avalanche is triggered by a small
amount of moving snow that accumulates into a big slide. Also known as a
"wet slide or point release" avalanche. This type of avalanche is
deceptively dangerous as it can still knock a climber or skier off their
feet and bury them, or sweep them over a cliff into a terrain trap.
Dangerous slides are most likely to occur on the same slopes preferred by
many skiers: long and wide open, few trees or large rocks, 30 to 45 degrees
of angle, large load of fresh snow, soon after a big storm, on a slope 'lee
to the storm'. Solar radiation can trigger slides as well. These will
typically be a point release or wet slough type of avalanche. The added
weight of the wet slide can trigger a slab avalanche. Ninety percent of
reported victims are caught in avalanches triggered by themselves or others
in their group.
When going off-piste or traveling in alpine terrain, parties have a moral
responsibility to always carry:
avalanche beacons
probes
shovels (retrieving victims with a shovel instead of your hands is five
times faster)
and to have had avalanche training! Paradoxically, expert skiers who have
avalanche training make up a large percentage of avalanche fatalities;
perhaps because they are the ones more likely to ski in areas prone to
avalanches.
Even with proper rescue equipment and training, there is a one-in-five
chance of dying if caught in a significant avalanche, and only a 50/50
chance of being found alive if buried more than a few minutes. The best
solution is to learn how to avoid risky conditions.
Falls from rocks
The skill of a rock climber is shown by one's choice of handhold and
foothold, and his adhesion to those one has chosen. Much depends on a
correct estimate of the firmness of the rock where weight is to be thrown
upon it. Many loose rocks are quite firm enough to bear a person's weight,
but experience is needed to know which can be trusted, and skill is required
in transferring the weight to them without jerking. On rotten rocks the rope
must be handled with special care, lest it should start loose stones on to
the heads of those below. Similar care must be given to handholds and
footholds, for the same reason. When a horizontal traverse has to be made
across very difficult rocks, a dangerous situation may arise unless at both
ends of the traverse there be firm positions. Mutual assistance on hard
rocks takes all manner of forms: two, or even three, people climbing on one
another's shoulders, or using for foothold an ice axe propped up by others.
The great principle is that of co-operation, all the members of the party
climbing with reference to the others, and not as independent units; each
when moving must know what the climber in front and the one behind are
doing. After bad weather steep rocks are often found covered with a veneer
of ice, which may even render them inaccessible. Crampons are useful on such
occasions.
Ice slopes
Mountaineers descending mixed rock, snow and ice slope in winter High Tatras.
For travel on slopes consisting of ice or hard snow, crampons are a standard
part of a mountaineer's equipment. While step-cutting can sometimes be used
on snow slopes of moderate angle, this can be a slow and tiring process,
which does not provide the higher security of crampons. However, in soft
snow or powder, crampons are easily hampered by balling of snow which reduce
their effectiveness. In either case, an ice axe not only assists with
balance but provides the climber with the possibility of self-arrest in case
of a slip or fall. On a true ice slope however, an ice axe is rarely able to
effect a self-arrest. As an additional safety precaution on steep ice
slopes, the climbing rope is attached to ice screws buried into the ice.
Newly-fallen snow quickly thaws on the surface and becomes sodden below, so
that the next night's frost turns the whole mass into a sheet of semi-solid
ice.
Snow slopes
Snow slopes are very common, and usually easy to ascend. At the foot of a
snow or ice slope is generally a big crevasse, called a bergschrund, where
the final slope of the mountain rises from a snow-field or glacier. Such
bergschrunds are generally too wide to be stepped across, and must be
crossed by a snow bridge, which needs careful testing and a painstaking use
of the rope. A steep snow slope in bad condition may be dangerous, as the
whole body of snow may start as an avalanche. Such slopes are less dangerous
if ascended directly than obliquely, for an oblique or horizontal track cuts
them across and facilitates movement of the mass. New snow lying on ice is
especially dangerous. Experience is needed for deciding on the advisability
of advancing over snow in doubtful condition. Snow on rocks is usually
rotten unless it is thick; snow on snow is likely to be sound. A day or two
of fine weather will usually bring new snow into sound condition. Snow
cannot lie at a very steep angle, though it often deceives the eye as to its
slope. Snow slopes seldom exceed 40°. Ice slopes may be much steeper. Snow
slopes in early morning are usually hard and safe, but the same in the
afternoon are quite soft and possibly dangerous; hence the advantage of an
early start.
Crevasses
Crevasses are the slits or deep chasms formed in the substance of a glacier
as it passes over an uneven bed. They may be open or hidden. In the lower
part of a glacier the crevasses are open. Above the snow-line they are
frequently hidden by arched-over accumulations of winter snow. The detection
of hidden crevasses requires care and experience. After a fresh fall of snow
they can only be detected by sounding with the pole of the ice axe, or by
looking to right and left where the open extension of a partially hidden
crevasse may be obvious. The safeguard against accident is the rope, and no
one should ever cross a snow-covered glacier unless roped to one, or even
better to two companions. Anyone venturing onto crevasses should be trained
in crevasse rescue.
Weather
The primary dangers caused by bad weather centre around the changes it
causes in snow and rock conditions, making movement suddenly much more
arduous and hazardous than under normal circumstances. Whiteouts make it
difficult to retrace a route while rain may prevent taking the easiest line
only determined as such under dry conditions. In a storm the mountaineer who
uses a compass for guidance has a great advantage over a merely empirical
observer. In large snow-fields it is, of course, easier to go wrong than on
rocks, but intelligence and experience are the best guides in safely
navigating objective hazards.
Summer thunderstorms may produce intense lightning which are attracted to
the highest points on the ground. If a climber happens to be standing on or
near the summit, they may now in fact be the highest point. There are many
cases where people have been struck by lightning while climbing mountains.
In most mountainous regions, local storms develop by late morning and early
afternoon. Many climbers will often begin ascents "alpine style"; that is
before or by first light so as to be on the way down when storms are
intensifying in activity and lightning and other weather hazards are a
distinct threat to safety.
Altitude
Rapid ascent can lead to altitude sickness. The best treatment is to descend
immediately. The climber's motto at high altitude is "climb high, sleep
low", referring to the regimen of climbing higher to acclimatize but
returning to lower elevation to sleep. In the South American Andes, the
chewing of coca leaves has been traditionally used to treat altitude
sickness symptoms.
Common symptoms of altitude sickness include severe headache, sleep
problems, nausea, lack of appetite, lethargy and body ache. Mountain
sickness may progress to HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema) and HAPE (High
Altitude Pulmonary Edema), both of which can be fatal within 24 hours.
In high mountains, atmospheric pressure is lower and this means that less
oxygen is available to breathe. This is the underlying cause of altitude
sickness. Everyone needs to acclimatize, even exceptional mountaineers that
have been to high altitude before. Generally speaking, mountaineers start
using bottled oxygen when they climb above 7,000 m. Exceptional mountaineers
have climbed 8000-meter peaks (including Everest) without oxygen, almost
always with a carefully planned program of acclimatization.
In 2005, researcher and mountaineer John Semple established that
above-average ozone concentrations on the Tibetan plateau may pose an
additional risk to climbers.