The Kalash or Kalasha, are a Caucasoid
ethnic group that lives in the Hindu Kush region of
Pakistan. Located in the North-West Frontier Province of
Pakistan, the Kalash people live in three isolated mountain
valleys Bumboret, Rumbur and Birir.
Their neighbors, the Nuristani call them Kasivo. The Kalash
are probably an ancient Dard people who speak the
Kalasha-mun language. Many Kalash claim that they are the
direct descendants of either Greek settlers, Alexander the
Great's army, or even Alexander himself. The climate is
typical of high elevation regions without large bodies of
water to regulate the temperature. The summers are mild and
agreeable with average maximum temperatures between 23° and
27°C Winters, on the other hand, can be very cold, with
average minimum temperatures between 2° and 1°C. The average
yearly precipitation is 700 to 800mm.
Culture; The region is extremely fertile, covering
the mountainside in rich oak forests and allowing for
intensive agriculture, despite the fact that most of the
work is done not by machinery, but by hand. The powerful and
dangerous rivers that flow through the valleys have been
harnessed to power grinding mills and to water the farm
fields through the use of ingenious irrigation channels.
Wheat, maize, grapes (generally used for wine), apples, and
walnuts are among the many foodstuffs grown in the area,
along with surplus fodder used for feeding the livestock.
Their unique culture and belief system differs drastically
from the various ethnic groups surrounding them. The Kalash
believe in various deities Mahadeo (Khodai, the Khowar word
for God is also used), and worship other deities that offer
protection to different aspects of life (such as Jeshtak,
who represents family, pregnant mothers, and marriage). It
is suggested that they are based on the Proto-Indo-European
religion, similar to the twelve Olympian gods of Ancient
Greece. Nature plays a highly significant and spiritual role
in their daily life. As part of their religious tradition,
sacrifices are offered and festivals held to give thanks for
the abundant resources of their three valleys. Presently,
these self-sufficient farmers are moving towards a
cash-based economy whereas previously wealth was measured in
livestock and crops.
They celebrate the Joshi (spring) festival at the end of May
each year, which they gauged by the movement of the sun. The
first day of Joshi is "Milk Day", on which the Kalash offer
libations of milk that have been saved for ten days prior to
the festival. Kalash women usually wear long black robes,
often embroidered with cowries shells. Men have adopted the
Pakistani shalwar kameez, while children wear small versions
of adult clothing after the age of four.
In contrast to the surrounding Pakistani culture, the Kalash
do not in general separate males and females or frown on
contact between the sexes. However, menstruating girls and
women are sent to live in the "bashaleni", the village
menstrual building, during their periods, until they regain
their "purity". They are also required to give birth in the
bashaleni. There is also a ritual restoring "purity" to a
woman after childbirth which must be performed before a
woman can return to her husband. The husband is an active
participant in this ritual. Kalash women breastfeed in
public. Although some marriages are arranged by families,
Kalash boys and girls can also propose and arrange their own
marriages.
The Kalash have been ruled by the Mehtar of Chitral since
the 1700s and have enjoyed a cordial relationship with the
major ethnic group of Chitral, the Kho. The multi-ethnic and
multi-religious State of Chitral ensured that the Kalash
were able to live in peace and harmony and practice their
culture and religion. The Nuristani, their neighbors in the
region of former Kafiristan east of the border, were invaded
in the 1890s and forced to convert to Islam by Amir
Abdur-Rahman of Afghanistan and their land was renamed
Nuristan.
Prior to that event, the people of Kafiristan had paid
tribute to the Mehtar of Chitral and accepted his
suzerainty. This came to an end with the Durand Agreement
when Kafiristan fell under the Afghan sphere of Influence.
Recently, the Kalash have been able to stop their
demographic and cultural spiral towards extinction and have,
for the past 30 years, been on the rebound. Increased
international awareness, a more tolerant government, and
monetary assistance has allowed them to continue their way
of life.
Tourism now makes up a large portion of the economic
activities of the Kalash. Before departing to the valleys
one must first register one's name at the town of Chitral.
People attempting to enter the valleys have to pay a toll to
the Pakistani government, which they claim will be used to
preserve and care for the Kalash people and their culture.
Travelers should refrain from interfering with or
patronizing the locals. The villages are more heavily
visited by tourists than ever before and the Holy festivals
are very serious to them and joining in or gawking at their
practices is considered very rude.
Famous festivals:
Joshi or Chilimjush :
14th and 15th of May. During this festival flowers
are plucked, dance sessions are held and exchange of dairy
products takes place.
Uchal:
Mid July. Celebrated to mark harvest season with
dancing, singing and feasting for two days.
Phool:
20th to 25th September to celebrate the
ripening of grapes and walnuts. They never touch grapes
before this festival.
Chaumos:
Held in December from 15 to 21. This festival is
celebrated with great pump and show on the onset of New
Year. A number of interesting events mark this festival.
Mrachiwaki Joshi:
25 May Held ten days after the Joshi. After dividing and
eating newly made cheese at the altar of Mahandeo, dances
and songs continue.
Rat Nat :
July - August. Dancing and singing at night
continue for one month.
Uchao:
Mid of August. Newly made cheese is brought from the
pastures. Ceremony is held at the altar of Mahandeo. Dancing
and singing take place until dawn.
Prechieishi:
November.
Goats are sacrificed to Mahandeo by each clan in thanks for
the harvest and health.
Biramor:
November.Very rare festival held only in
November in which a man wishing to gain honour in the
society slaughters many of his own goats and entertains a
large majority of the Kalasha. It takes place once in
several years.
Sariack:
November - December.Wedding party. She-goats are
sacrificed to Jeshtak and prayers are offered for the
couple. Dance and songs.
Pu and Budalak;
October. Festival only held in Biriu. Dancing and singing continue for three days. After Pu, grapes are allowed to be harvested. After that, a festival is held for the Budalak who returns from long stay in the pastures. He is a young goatherd who has some special sexual power and privileges.
Accessibility:
The journey from
Islamabad and Peshawar to Kalash takes approximately 12-14 hours. It takes about
14-15 hours to
reach Gilgit over Shandur Pass.
Pakistan International Airlines has a daily flight between
Chitral and Peshawar International Airport. The flying time is approximately
50 minutes and the flight is scenic. These flights, however, are subject to the
clearance of weather and in winters, flights are often delayed by several
days.








